Tokyo National Museum: "We walked into a room cluttered with hanging scrolls and folding screens and enough artifacts to strain the building’s foundation, with a single large window looking out onto a tranquil garden. In the middle of it all was a tiny man in a rumpled suit, his hair and wispy beard both entirely white, sitting at a wooden desk so massive it made him seem a child alongside it. He looked up from a book, pulled off one set of wire-rim spectacles and pulled on another, and used a cane to come to his feet."